Washing the print head of epson printers. Epson R290, T50, T59, P50, P59 printhead cleaning. HP and Canon print head cleaning.

Epson brand printers with a continuous ink supply system are considered among the best. They are beneficial in operation, economical in paint consumption. Suitable for office printing or home use. When the device has ink supply problem, you need to clean his head. It is possible to do it at home with your own hands.

Different printer models have their own cleaning features. The procedure is carried out as needed, clear restrictions or certain periodicity no. It is better to use methods that do not require disassembly of the device. So you extend its life. The easiest way is software. To execute it, you need to open the start menu and go to the section called "Devices and Printers". There to be found your printer model, move the cursor over it, click, and select the "Properties" category from the menu. Then, using the “Service” tab, select “Head Cleaning” and click on the right mouse button to start the program. When cleaning is completed, a test image is printed. If there are no gaps on it, the process is considered completed. If necessary, repeat 2 times.

How to clean L200

The printer needs to be cleaned when its head becomes clogged and the clarity of the image or text is disturbed. The procedure can be carried out manually. Necessary actions:

• Turn off the device using the start button - wait until the green indicator lights up, but do not disconnect from the computer.
• Next, paper is placed in its input tray - at least 5 sheets. We will use it for printing.
• Commands the printer to perform head cleaning. It is carried out by simultaneously pressing the Cancel Reset and power buttons.
• Checks the print quality of test pages. If the lines on them are clear and continuous, then cleaning was successful. If the lines on the paper are dotted, intermittent, then the process must be repeated.
• Press Cancel Reset and hold for 3-5 seconds until the indicator flashes. This indicates the start of cleaning.
• After the light stops flashing, the device turns off.

Service L210

Timely cleaning of the printer will increase productivity and save ink consumption. If your documents are not printing well, it is time to reset the machine head for clear and crisp prints. continuous printing. But it is often not recommended to do the procedure, otherwise it will lead to the opposite effect and reduce image quality. In the start menu we find "Devices and Printers". We choose our own among them and start the cleaning process using the appropriate program. The printer must be turned off, but connected to the computer. When the program starts cleaning the head, the ink is drawn from the donor chambers, passing through the nozzles, it removes blockages or clogs that contribute to gaps, faint fragments of the picture or text. After the procedure is test the device by printing multiple sheets of documents. If cleaning is not successful, you can give the printer time to rest and try again after 12 hours.

Printer L355

You can use a software method similar to the previous device model. If this method is ineffective, it is worth a try. physical method– flushing with a special liquid.

Flushing fluids OCP RSL and Color-print RED-BLOOD are combined together. Injection can be done with a syringe. The content is shaken. When ready, the mixture should be bright pink. Refilling refillable cartridges washing liquid. They are included in the printer flush kit. We install liquid cartridges and do several cleanings at intervals of 2-3 hours after a couple of visits. AT difficult cases it is allowed to leave them in the device for 12 hours or more to get good performance. In this case, when checking the nozzle test, it will have a light pink tint. If you observe other colors, repeat the cleaning. Color-print RED-BLOOD liquid can be used not only for flushing, but also for the safety of the printer. She is keep head dry and get clogged if it becomes necessary not to use the device for some time.

How to clean L800

You need to start the procedure when streaks are found on documents during printing or the color of the printout fades. To do this, you need a flushing fluid. If the printer is not very littered, then you can moisten cotton pads in it, place them in the head parking place for 12 hours. After the required time has elapsed, remove the disks and start the software cleaning process. The procedure is carried out only at the time when the device is turned off. If you have to remove the cartridges, then this is not allowed for 2-3 minutes, and the sooner they fall into place, the better. This is due to the ingress of air into them, which will contribute to the next drying of the paint and nullify all your previous efforts. By doing the cleaning procedure correctly, you can easily restore the health of the printer head.

Epson sx30

The dried head of the printer is cleaned with a cartridge and resuscitation fluid. Procedure order:

• Disassemble the cartridge and rinse from dried ink.
• Fill it up washing liquid and put in place.
• When inserting a cartridge, preference should be given to the color channel that works worse than the others.
• Perform cleaning using the device driver menu.
• Wait a couple of hours.
• Print a test sheet. On it, the remainder of the paint will be noticeable, which the nozzles and printer channels were clogged with.
• Leave the device for 12 hours in this form.
• Repeat software cleanup.
• Wait 2-3 hours.
• Purge again using the device driver option.
• Insert ink cartridge.
• Type test sheet after cleaning.

Printer cx4300

Use the usual software method to clean the device. If it turns out to be ineffective due to the head being heavily clogged with debris and dried ink, use the physical flushing method. Stock up on a syringe, IV tube, flushing fluid, scissors, a tissue, and gloves. After cutting the dropper tube to a length of 5 to 10 cm, it is put on the syringe. The flushing liquid is drawn into the tube. You need to turn on the printer and open the cover, wait carriage exit with cartridges to the point of replacement. Then the device turns off. The print head is manually moved to the right, a napkin is applied and the head runs over it. The cartridges are removed, a tube with a syringe is alternately inserted into their connectors to supply 2-3 cubes of the flushing composition. After the procedure is completed, the system is assembled back and 2 cleanings are performed using the printer driver. If in the future there is no desire to frequently repeat the cleaning of the device, it is advisable to print at least once every 7 days one color sheet at a time to keep the ink from drying out and clogging the printer head.

By learning how to clean the device at home, you will save yourself from contacting service centres and payment for their services.

My recipe is this.
1. Conventional cartridges are washed from ink residues.
2. Washed cartridges are refilled with a washing liquid corresponding to the type of printer and the ink used (washing liquid for pigment ink - for Epson c63-84 and those where pigment ink was used or is supposed to be used; the rest is normal).
3. The prepared cleaning cartridges are inserted into the printer and several cleaning cycles are performed.

All. b)

| Message Sent 11 October 2004 - 19:26 Sergey Z

Already cleared my head c63 several times. I'm trying to get it to print with regular ink. Clogs up almost immediately. I wash with normal water. It's better to take the body off. I put 3 cm transparent tubes on the fittings. I pour water into them with a syringe. I disconnect the hose from the pump. I use a syringe instead of a pump. I create a vacuum under the head with a syringe, if the head is in order, the water leaves the tubes on the fittings. If it doesn’t go away, then I drive water back and forth, also attaching another syringe to the fitting. Avoid too much pressure (may damage your head). My c63 head is still intact despite such harsh experiments, it prints with native cartridges after washing. Washes out pretty quickly. Also washed dried heads. One case was severe, only a resuscitator helped, dripping on nozzles for a couple of hours.

| Message Sent 13 November 2004 - 21:52 Sergey Z

Find out what happened (When, what did they run, how much did they print, when last time). From practice, if it stood for a long (very long) time, then it cleans itself in a couple of days, maybe not all nozzles, but it will print. And such cases when it does not print AT ALL, in my opinion, these are electrical problems. Do a simple experiment. Wash the pad where the head is parked. Refill the cartridges. Turn on purge. Look at the pad for ink, i.e. ink passes through the head, and does not print, then it is not a matter of clogging the head. If there's no ink... but that's unlikely. The printer is fairly new, and could not dry out, unless the head was parked. All the nozzles could not be clogged either. I recently installed a new head on an Epson 1500 (colored heads from Epson 820, Iis are sold separately), I have 5 of them, one never worked at all, lay in the closet even without a cartridge, it worked right away, but lay there for ... 8 years! The Epson 800 was also cleared, it did not print for two years. Fully earned in 3 days.

| Message Sent 06 April 2006 - 15:04 yuha

I remain an opponent of washing PG (epson) with pressure. Soaking from below, gravity from above. Possibly underpressure. Haven't tried yet.
According to preparations: - for starters, well-filtered water. Further, if desired, gasoline, kerosene, alcohol, ammonia, "branded" washings. At the end - napalm :).
Don't let it dry out!

| Message Sent 21 November 2006 - 18:46 Tack

YuHa (Apr 6 2006, 04:03 PM) wrote:

I remain an opponent of washing PG (epson) with pressure. Soaking from below, gravity from above. Possibly underpressure...

"Is it really clay now?! That used to be clay!" Remember this saying? :) And yet, the first models of Epson printers were made to last, with a margin. Of course, you can kill them, but they can also be repaired. By chance, an ancient Epson 820 appeared at my house. The paper feed mechanism did not work, the print head was completely dried up and ... it looks like new :) And since my old C42 is already printing with a new owner and the new R220 is not yet equipped with CISS and good ink then I decided to come to grips with the 820th. Since this is one of the few Epson models that has an interchangeable print head (either monochrome or color, like the Canons), the process of dismantling the PG takes seconds, as well as its installation. Before washing the head under pressure, it rotted for several days in the washing liquid + a capsule with washing on the ink fitting. Since there is no nozzle test in the standard driver for this printer, a black square created in Word in the "quick draft" mode was used as a test printout. My goal was to achieve a uniform (without gaps) fill. The test showed that several nozzles still do not work. Rinsing with distilled water at first did not give any effect either. Then, with the help of a heated distillate (in a water bath), I pumped the nozzles again (of course, without fanaticism, with an air gap under the syringe piston), while the plate with the nozzles was slightly (!!!) dipped into the vessel with the same distillate. And this is where the so-called "reverse suction" method came in handy. Drawing water through the nozzles with a syringe, I saw how much garbage was inside the PG. He could not slip through the built-in filter or nozzles and dangled as they say on the spot. After installing the PG in place to speed up its airing, I put a syringe on the end of the ink drain tube that was brought out into the diaper and slowly began to pull out the piston. Literally in a few seconds, ink appeared in the tube and I pumped it out for about a couple of cubes until the air bubbles stopped coming out. Naturally, the cap should be clean and fit snugly to the bottom of the steam generator. It should also be noted that the 820 has a rather large nozzle diameter and it’s not a fact that you can pump ink so easily on new models. As a result, the test printout showed 100% nozzle operation, which was required in the task :)

| Message Sent 29 November 2006 - 19:31 alexmaler

Or if you don't have any, here's a recipe for an effective pigment wash that you can make at home. We have a problem with buying this, if it is sold in a store, then it is not effective and safe, or if it is dangerous and effective, then they will not be sold to a simple man in the street. But some components can be bought at a pharmacy against a receipt.
Thanks

| Message Sent 04 December 2006 - 23:54 alexmaler

It was very simple to beat his head - he gave a syringe through the chur and this joy poured out of all possible cracks_ I haven’t figured it out yet, but there is an assumption. that MUSCLE corroded the sealing putty between the board and the piezo
And about ultrasound, whose firm? If it's Russian, then you can't buy it from us. I want to refine the file with a frequency adjustment. 30W should be enough.

| Message Sent 05 December 2006 - 23:28 alexmaler

The first time I put it in a solution of ammonia with glycerin and dis. water for 4 days, the effect is zero. I washed it with water and let it dry under ventilation for about a week. Then I tried it with MUSCLE, and probably in the process of pushing my patience snapped. By the way, I pierced the next PG more accurately and achieved about 50% passage of liquid through the nozzles. Now it is drying. I will try further_problem - there is not enough free time. When concrete results are achieved, after the implementation of new ideas, I will definitely write.

| Message Sent 14 December 2006 - 03:38 falanga

The topic is vital
However, the question immediately arises - WHAT to wash? I did not find a separate topic on the forum (I used the search), but different topics going infa like Mister Muscle for Epson, Xylit Magic (already for Canon), all kinds of solutions with alcohols and even nail polish remover like "weasel" ....

In my "experiments" with "weasel" I have already slammed 2 heads - black and color - from the Canon S450 print .... and the restorative liquid from the profiling nafig dissolved the contact group on the HP No. 26 cartridge - these were the results I had at first
You don't want to repeat each other's sad experiences, do you?

In this connection, I suppose it would be nice to talk specifically about liquids? (in this topic or separately taken)

I am now using Inktek CS and yellow OSB wash, tomorrow I was going to move for blue OSB and I also found "ATM cleaning liquid" in the price lists. What is it - Yandex did not give an answer: -X

I never had any problems with water, but with pigment - everything is completely different. Now I'm working on C82, about 20% of the black nozzles are clogged, half of the red ones, and one yellow one.
I pumped it with syringes heated by Inktek and yellow OSB, the result is but very modest - only a few nozzles, and when washing, ONE BLACK NOZZLE DISAPPEARED - what, a lump of pigment from the neighboring one swam chtoli ??? ...

There was the same trouble with the C65 - but there was only one blue nozzle left dead - and I gave it away, since the black print was important to the client, but it was like a nail in my ass ... you know what I mean ...

Now customers are adjusting, layouts are being printed there, quality is important, something more effective needs to be applied. I'll try the blue OSB...

But maybe someone else can advise?

In general, it would be nice to isolate all the information about the fluids used and the experience of working with them in a single topic, do you think it will be useful?

Or revive the old one, if it exists, but I didn’t notice it;)