Who made the costumes for the 5th element. The Fifth Element: Costume History

Jean Paul Gaultier wonderful artist, creating sophisticated, sophisticated models with a touch of outrageous and bright sensuality. At the same time, his work is distinguished by subtle self-irony, some hooliganism and artistry, making clothes "from Gauthier" devoid of bourgeois pathos. Therefore, his models are so in demand among pop and film stars, and his work as a costume designer is incredibly interesting.

Film 1. "Falbalas" by Jacques Becker. childhood impression.

"I owe cinema the fact that I became a fashion designer," says Jean-Paul Gaultier. A strong impression on the young Jean-Paul was made by the French film of 1944 "Falbalas" (we translate it as "Ladies' rags"). "When I was nine or ten years old I first saw Falbalas, a film directed by Jacques Becker with Micheline Prel.

The film was set in the atelier of Marcel Rocha, where they filmed the fashion house in which main character. This opened up a whole fairy world in front of me. Of course, there were also my grandmother's corsets, but "Falbalas" was really a trigger. It incredibly accurately describes the world of Parisian couturiers. So when I started working for Cardin and Patou in 1970, I knew I hit Falbalas!”

Interestingly, not only was M. Roche's Fashion House filmed, but he was also the costume designer in this film.

Marcel Rocha

Marcel Rocha opened his house in 1924. He was friends with Jean Cocteau and Paul Poiret, besides he was an influential designer with a worldwide reputation. His clients included Hollywood stars such as Carole Lombard, Marlene Dietrich and others.

M. Rocha model

For actress Mae West, Marcel Rocha created a black wasp-waist corset with chantilly lace. He paid a lot of attention lingerie. In the 40s, when a thin waist was popular, he introduced a semi-corset into fashion, which pulled the waist and had garters for stockings. And it was called "guepiere" (translated from French "wasp").

In our country, his name is well known thanks to the spirits. He released his first perfume in 1944 as a wedding gift for his wife. He called them simply - "Femme" (Woman). The company "Lalik" has developed a bottle in the form of a fragment female figure With slim waist and rounded hips, they say he was inspired by such a design by Mae West. The number of spirits was very limited, because there was a war, so they were enrolled in a queue.

obstinate clients,

The work of Jean-Paul Gaultier himself also features a certain moment of exaggeration. However, in my opinion, he does it quite interestingly. Later, fate gave a chance to Gauthier himself to work as a costume designer in the cinema. Of all the designers who provided their costumes for filming, Jean-Paul, in my opinion, really added bright, important accents to the films, helped to more accurately reveal the characters' characters and the essence of the picture itself.

Film 2. 1989 "COOK, THIEF, HIS WIFE AND HER LOVER"
PETER GREENAWAY. SEXUAL AGGRESSION.

Jean Paul Gaultier, Peter Greenaway - Party 1993, Theater des Champs Elysees

This is Jean-Paul Gaultier's first film in which he acted as costume designer. Despite the rigid plot, the film is very picturesque and incredibly imaginative. It has been called "a masterpiece of triumphant pictorial spectacle".

This film brought together a wonderful team of excellent professionals: director - Peter Greenaway, a man with a non-standard view of the world (by the way, an artist by education), production designer Ben van os (who does not remember his "Girl with a Pearl Earring" ?!), my favorite composer - Michael Nyman ("Piano", "Drafter's Contract" and much more). Actors - Michael Gabon (whose face, thanks to "Harry Potter" is now known to the whole world), Helena Mirren (the beautiful "Queen" Frears, an actress with Russian roots) and Tim Roth (a thin, beautiful actor, Tarantino's favorite, now still known to fans of the series on "Lie to Me"). And the costumes in this film played a big role.

The motto of the film is "food, sex and death." Gaultier's style, with its sexually aggressive dresses, corsets, tight skirts, high heels, fits perfectly into this concept. Greenway loves to structure everything. So in this film, his love of order takes on the image of a food factory: food is prepared in the kitchen, eaten in a restaurant, thrown away in the toilet. Each of these objects has its own color: green, red and white. The color of the characters' costumes also changes depending on which room they are in. While the heroes are walking through the kitchen, their clothes are gray-green, they go into the restaurant hall - it turns black and red, they go to the toilet - black and white. Moreover, this was not done on a computer, but new suits of a different color were sewn.

Well, the final, demonic dress of Helena Mirren accurately and figuratively emphasizes the tension of the scene. The heroine in it looks like an outlandish bird entangled in a net.

Self-quoting.

A similar dress, but in a different color from the couturier collection

Collection 2009 - 2010 and Lady Gaga

Film 3. 1993 "KIKA" by P. ALMODOVAR.
BLOODY GLAMOR

In the kitschy picture of the absurd "Kika" Gautier no longer acts as a costume designer, but only as a designer of one star - Victoria Abril. It seems to me that this character, in terms of its aesthetics, is closest to the designer, his artistic "I". Other characters were dressed by Gianni Versace.

P. Almodovar, Victoria Abril and Jean-Paul Gaultier

costume designs for the film

frame from the movie "Kika"

This costume from the movie is in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.
Part of the "Cyberpunk" outfit designed by Jean-Paul Gaultier for Victoria Abril in the 1994 film "Kika" directed by Pedro Almodovar. Victoria Abril"s character, Andrea "Scarface" Caracortada is shown riding her motorcycle around Madrid wearing futuristic combat clothes such as these with electronically controlled lights and elements.

As for the dresses for Andrea, host of Worst of the Day, the director asked Jean-Paul to imagine that she had just been a victim of a disaster, but at the same time she should look glamorous.

The choice of the range of these dresses is not accidental. There is not only a direct association: red is blood, black is death. Here and following Spanish traditions with a violent sexual temperament, the bloodthirstiness of bullfighting, the gracefulness of flamenco.

In this shot, the hem of the dress looks like streams of blood that flood the screen. A spectacular metaphor conveyed through the costume. "Her costumes reflect the character of the heroine," says Almodovar. And Gaultier calls this style "bloody glamour."

Hair wriggles like rubber wires

blood is dripping on his shoes in shiny red plastic appliqués.

"It's a reflection of the aesthetics of horror, junk design and post-punk in fashion, and the result is aesthetic violence," said Almodovar.These costumes fit perfectly into the style of the film, adding some visual poignancy and grotesque to it.

"It's a reflection of the aesthetics of horror, junk design and post-punk fashion, resulting in aesthetic violence," said Almodóvar.

Catherine Deneuve in a Gaultier dress

Madonna's famous costume

Film 4. 1995 "CITY OF LOST CHILDREN"
MARC CARO, JEAN-PIERRE GENET.
FORWARD TO THE PAST

Looking at the characters in the movie "City of Lost Children" you feel like you got it out of an old, dusty chest magic theater. Dwarfs, giants, identical people, Siamese twins, a talking brain ... and children on the other side of it all.

And they are all dressed by Gauthier. "The greatest talent of Jean-Paul Gaultier is that he brings his personal vision into the universe of the film. Yes, how!", - said about the designer Caro, one of the directors of the film.

"We both believe in an extreme of beauty that many people would find weird. That same extreme is present in his fashion shows."

costume designs, scenes from the movie "City of Lost Children"

"City of Lost Children" is a very French picture, with a special national flavor. Gauthier tried to make costumes in the style of the first French films. “In old French films, the image has a very great importance"said the designer. "For example, in the films" L "Argent" ("Money") by Marcel L "Herbier and" Les Enfants du Paradis"("Children of Paradise") by Marcel Carnet. I saw these films as a child - my mother watched them on TV. They influenced me and my attitude towards fashion. The film "Money" is a kind of "Metropolis". These are all films in style art deco.

frame from the movie "Money"

Caro said that there is no specific time in the picture. It is clear that this is not happening now, but you don’t know exactly when,” Gauthier said. “He told me to watch Charlie Chaplin films, for example,“ kid" ("Baby").

Shot from the movie "Baby"

He wanted the children to look something like this, in the same spirit. In terms of time - somewhere from the beginning of the century to the 40s.

Frame from the movie "City of Lost Children"

“I felt,” Gautier continued his story, “that elegance was a thing of the past, but I thought it would be cool and modern to put together different eras to create a timeless period."

A real sweater of the Breton sailors, which is so popularized by Gauthier. In the 18th century, the inhabitants of Brittany (a region in northwestern France) sailed to England to sell onions. These merchants wore sweaters that made them recognizable from afar. They were very tightly bound. in an unusual way- did not let water through, resisted wind and cold. The Britons kept this method of knitting such sweaters a secret. Since they were worn tightly dressed on the body, they were called "the second skin of sailors."

Jean-Paul himself in his "signature" jumper and haute couture models from his collections

I love that my costumes in this film are part of its atmosphere. They play a decisive role in cinema, but they are also made for cinema, and not as an advertisement for Jean-Paul Gaultier."
Apparently, Gauthier was so fascinated by working with children that years later he made a children's collection.

1997 "THE FIFTH ELEMENT" LUC BESSON.
UNISEX OF THE FUTURE

One of the most notable paintings by J.-P. Gauthier, this, of course, is The Fifth Element. He designed 954 costumes for this film. ""I wanted the best designer, and that is Jean-Paul," said Besson. "He feels the color, he knows the taste of New York." The space of the film, which takes place in the future, allowed Gaultier to embody all his fantasies in costumes. So, even for the brutal Korben Dallas, performed by Bruce Willis, he came up with a suit with a neckline on the back, which is usually a detail of women's dresses.

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This movie is full of humor and unexpected turns the plot, so loved by the audience that they do not stop reviewing it again and again. But many interesting details remain unnoticed!

Faktrum invites its readers to take a closer look at some scenes.

1. At the beginning of the movie, each character has 5 lines, and on Leela's tattoo - 6

Is that how it was intended? Movie blooper? We can only guess.

Photo source: Fishki.net

2. "Real" time is incorrectly calculated

1914 + 300 = 2214.

3. By the way, March 18 is Luc Besson's birthday.

4. The rabbi, the cardinal and the priest just rest behind Cornelius.

Why bother when they can decide everything for them.

5. Adorable cat rug in Korben's apartment

6. An empty box of Gemini croquettes, the product that sponsored Korben's trip to Fhloston Paradise

8. Judging by the thick lenses in the glasses, this specialist has big vision problems, although he himself can create a person in the laboratory from almost nothing!

Maybe glasses are just part of his style?

9. The statue of Atlas from the movie bears a strong resemblance to the one at Rockefeller Center.

10. According to these signs in the movie, McDonald's serves 65 trillion customers.

McDonald's stopped counting the number of customers served in 1994, three years before the film's release. At that time, the number stopped at 99 billion.

11. Cornelius has a wide variety of religious paraphernalia at home.

A man with ambiguous religious views!

12. During a telephone conversation, Korben touches the garland with the Earth, and Finger starts talking about saving the planet.

An interesting hint...

13. Korben is reading Sanctuary Manga

14. Zorg Corporation logo on a notice of termination

So Korben worked as a taxi driver for the biggest bad guy.

15. Brooklyn Bridge Behind Mr. Kim's Flying Boat

Korben lived somewhere in Brooklyn.

16. That funny resemblance to Star Wars!

It's hard to find someone who hasn't watched at least once in their life. cult movie"Fifth Element". Jean Paul Gaultier acted as the costume designer for this painting and designed around 1000 models! The designer is known for his outrageousness, creativity, artistry, as well as elements of subtle self-irony and hooliganism. For the film "The Fifth Element" this is what was required.

So, Milla Jovovich appeared on the screens, tied like a mummy with elastic bands, then the courageous Bruce Willis in a tight orange T-shirt with a neckline on the back. Gary Oldman, in the role of the villain Zorgan, acted as the prototype for Hitler and was dressed in striped black and white rubber pajamas. And what were Chris Tucker's costumes worth - a leopard costume or a costume with roses captivated the audience.

The main character Lilu in the first episodes was dressed in a suit of white elastic bandages. Later, she donned a cropped white tank top, gold leggings, an orange rubber band in the shape of suspenders, and combat boots. Lilu's costume perfectly complemented the image of her heroine.

Interestingly, after the film adaptation of the action movie, many designers, inspired by Lilu's costume, created similar dresses with bandage elements.

Many remember Bruce Willis as the masculine Corben Dallas in an orange T-shirt, but few know that he had a feminine neckline on his back.

The American musician Prince was originally invited to play the extravagant Ruby Rose. The singer found Gauthier's sketches too feminine and turned down the role, but Chris Tucker happily agreed to take part in the filming. And he did the right thing!

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The role of the eccentric tyrant businessman Zorgan in a rubber suit went to Gary Oldman.

Minor characters also received luxurious costumes. The flight attendants on board the ship appeared in white wigs and low-cut blue uniforms.

And this is what it looked like Opera singer, a blue-skinned alien Diva Plavalaguna.

Even the McDonald's workers of the future got their own unique uniforms.

While writing this text, I wanted to watch the film again, and you?