Chapter 8

Pastiger business - the art of making wigs and other hair products - requires great skill. Since about the 20s, this art has ceased to be given due attention. This attitude towards pastige was explained by the fact that a short haircut was firmly established in fashion and models of women's hairstyles developed in the direction of simplicity and naturalness.

Pastiger business has become relevant again, as hairpieces, overlays and wigs have become firmly established in fashion. Consequently, educational institutions that train hairdressers should pay special attention to this art.

To successfully work with wigs, hairpieces and overlays, a certain amount of theoretical knowledge is required. In practice, pastoral work is widely used so far only in theaters, film studios and television. In addition, wigs are made for dolls and display mannequins. For the manufacture of these products, synthetic hair is most often used.

The development and widespread use of wigs and hairpieces in everyday life was caused not only by the demand for fashion and the conveniences associated with the use of wigs and hairpieces, but also by certain achievements of the chemical industry in the manufacture of special monofilaments that successfully replace natural hair. Therefore, the production and sale of hair products are in constant development. At present, in-line production for the manufacture of wigs for general consumption has been established in our country. It is better to make wigs for everyday wear from natural hair so that this wig looks more natural. The task of the master pastiger is to make a wig taking into account the individual characteristics of the client.

Classification of pastry products. Currently existing hair products are divided into male and female.

Men's products: wigs and semi-wigs, overlays (tamboured, combined).

Women's products: wigs and semi-wigs (tressed, tambourine, combined); overlays (tress, tambour, combined); hairpieces (tress, tambourine); braids (in three strands with one and three ears); eyelashes (tambourine, tress).

The list of these products, depending on the purpose, design and technological features, is summarized in the classification scheme (Fig. 51) by groups, subgroups, varieties, types of subgroups. It includes the entire range of pasty products made in our country and abroad. The construction of a classification scheme according to this principle makes it possible in the future to include pastoral products of any names that may appear in the future.

Along with the names of groups, subgroups, types, indexes of symbols (numbers, letters) were introduced into the classification scheme, which made it possible to standardize technological documentation for pasture production.

Thus, groups of pasty items in the classification scheme are assigned Roman numerals (I, II); subgroups - Arabic numerals, starting from one; varieties of subgroups - capital letters of the Russian alphabet (A, B); subgroup types - Arabic numerals with zero (01, 02, 03, 04); varieties of types - lowercase letters of the Russian alphabet (a, b, c).

For example: the symbol for a women's tambourine wig with a parting, according to the indices adopted in the classification scheme, is as follows: I.1.02.a, where I is a group; 1 - subgroup; 02 - subgroup type; a is a kind of type.

Hair products. Pastiger products (wigs, hairpieces, hairpieces) made of natural and artificial hair need some care. As necessary, they are tinted, trimmed.

Ignorance of the rules for caring for pastier products or an accidental mistake in the work of a hairdresser can lead to damage to them.

Materials used for the manufacture of products from natural hair. The main raw material for the manufacture of artificial hair products are natural human hair. Wool and animal hair, vegetable or synthetic fibers are also used.

Human hair can be cut or combed when combing the hair - feathering. You can distinguish cut hair from tows by the following features: cut hair is heavier, harder and more even than combed hair; at the root they are always thicker and darker than at the ends.

Tows are obsolete hair, but they can be dissected, that is, combed, cleaned, sorted by length and laid in one direction. If the tows are not dissected, they have hair follicles at the roots, which fell out during combing along with the hair.

For the manufacture of products from wool and animal hair, the following are used: wool of angora goats (tiftin is wool 30 cm long, has a silky sheen, very soft, most often white); wool and mane of Tibetan goats (considered a lower grade material than angora wool, has a weaker sheen); sarlyk hair (get it from the mane and tail of Tibetan yaks, it is hard, glassy, ​​gray or black); camel hair, ponytail and mane.

From plant fibers, flax and hemp are used. In addition, silk sieve, cotton tulle, braid, thread, as well as watch springs and other materials are used to make artificial hair products.

Equipment and tools necessary for the manufacture of hair products. Their purpose. To make hair products, you need the following:

1. A table with the edges of the top board projecting about 10 cm for fastening with clamps of a hair weaving frame or other tools. At a height of 20 cm from the floor, the table should have a bar. The worker can put his feet on it to keep the blanks in a comfortable position on his knees during the manufacture of the wig. If there is no such bar, use a footstool.

2. Chairs with soft seats (due to long sitting work).

3. Cabinets for storing hair tools, finished products and other materials.

4. Containers (enamelled baths or basins) for disinfection, washing and rinsing hair.

5. Card (Fig. 52), designed for combing hair. It is a board measuring 10 × 20 × 2 cm, which is upholstered with tin. Steel teeth 5–6 cm long are inserted vertically into the board in rows, the distance between rows is 0.5 cm. During operation, it must be firmly attached to the table with special clamps.

Care must be taken when working on the card, as sharp needles can injure your hands. After work, the card is placed with the needles down, and if it remains attached to the table, then it should be covered with a brush.

6. Brush (fig. 53) for holding and pressing the hair in the card. The length of the bristles should be 1 cm longer than the length of the card needles so that the ends of the needles do not touch the wooden part of the brush.

The bristles of the brush not only press the hair, but also protect it from tangling. With its help, any amount of hair is extracted from the card.

7. Kardach - a card with curved needles (Fig. 54). Cardach is designed to hold long hair. It consists of two identical leather plates measuring approximately 25X25 cm. On one side, needles bent from steel wire are densely inserted, protruding by 1 cm (cardolent).

The heads of the hair are laid in the card, and the ends are clamped in the card. This makes it possible to pull out the required amount of hair from the card in small bundles, without confusing them, and to separate short hair from long hair. In the event of a break in work, the hair can be left without fear that it will tangle.

8. Frame for weaving hair (Fig. 55). This tool is used to make tress. It consists of two wooden racks with a diameter of 3 cm, a height of 30 - 40 cm and three wooden pegs. Racks are attached to the desktop with clamps at a distance of about 1 m from each other.

The right post has three holes for the pegs, on which the threads are wound, and the left one has one hole with a pin for fixing the free ends of the threads wound on the pegs.

The uniform tension of the threads is adjusted by twisting the pegs.

9. Winding machine (Fig. 56). It is used in the manufacture of braids for winding the weft onto the braid.

The winding machine consists of a metal rack with a screw, with which the tool is attached to the table; horizontal axis, a roller for winding tape on it and a wheel. In the middle of the latter, a roller with a braid wound around it is inserted. Its end is pulled through the side hole in the wheel and through the axle. By turning the wheel, the braid is twisted into a tight tourniquet.

In the absence of a winding machine for twisting the braid into a bundle, you can use a frame for weaving hair. In this case, the braid is pulled through the hole in the right post. One end of the braid is held in the left hand, and the braid fixed at the hole is twisted with the right.

10. Drying cabinet with thermometer for drying hair after disinfection.

11. Blanks (Fig. 57) of various sizes and shapes for making wigs. They are usually made of soft woods, at the bottom they have holes for mounting them on a rack.

12. Clamps and blank holders are designed so that the blank can be freely rotated and tilted in any direction, which facilitates work (Fig. 58).

To carry out work on the manufacture of hair products, the following small tools are also needed: pliers, wire cutters, thin pins 10 mm long for pricking braid and fabrics onto a blank, pins, a small hammer for nailing pins, a centimeter, sewing needles, a thimble, bobbins for making curly hair, knifolny needle for pulling hair, comb and brush (massage) for combing hair, pliers (fig. 59) for curling hair with bobbins, tongs for corrugating hair, giving them fluffiness (fig. 60), a device for heating tongs, tambour hook.

All tools and instruments should be kept clean at all times, protected from damage and stored in their designated place.

§ 28. Technology for the manufacture of products from natural hair

The execution of orders is made from natural hair taken from the customer, or from the customer's hair with the addition of atelier hair, or completely from atelier hair. For the manufacture of hair products, only clean, not tangled and not felted hair is accepted or purchased.

An accepted order is issued with a receipt, which indicates the name of the order, the weight and length of the hair, the cost of the order, and the deadline for its implementation. In addition, a brief description of the accepted hair is given. They are placed in a plastic bag with a copy of the receipt. It stores one order or one batch of purchased hair.

Before proceeding with the manufacture of hair products, it is necessary that the hair undergoes pre-treatment (degreasing, disinfection, dyeing, etc.).

After selecting the hair of the appropriate colors in the amount required for this product, the ends of the hair are placed on the card. With the left hand, they hold a strand of hair in the card from the side of the heads, with the thumb and forefinger of the right hand they pull out small strands from the middle and twist them, after which they comb them again on the card, holding in the right hand, first in the direction from the heads to the ends, and then vice versa . This operation is repeated until the hair is completely mixed.

In order for the hair to be well preserved, each strand should be firmly tied near the heads with a thread, lightly sprinkled with naphthalene, wrapped in paper and stored in a closet until the work on trespassing or tambouring is carried out.

From the cut hair, short ones are first separated, unsuitable for further work. To do this, individual strands are processed on the card by repeated pulling. Short hair remains in the teeth of the card.

The combed strands of hair are tied with a thread and washed in warm water, to which washing powder or paste is added. If the hair is heavily contaminated, this operation is repeated in a new solution.

After washing, the hair is boiled in water for 15 - 20 minutes, then washed in a solution of pure water with citric or acetic acid and dried in air or in an oven at a temperature of 50 - 60 ° C. When combing the hair on the card and subsequent washing, care must be taken so that the ends of the hair are on one side of the strand, and their heads are on the other. This will keep your hair from tangling.

To make the product look more natural, the hair is pre-highlighted (mixed). At the request of the customer, hard hair is mixed with softer, straight with wavy, light with dark, etc.

So that the hair does not fall off during the manufacture of the product, they are folded in one direction so that there are heads on one side and ends on the other. To do this, a thick soapy foam is whipped in a large basin and, holding a strand in the middle, hit the foam with one end. As a result, the hair heads are immersed, and the ends remain on the surface of the foam, after which they are easy to separate. The ends are grasped with one hand, and the heads with the other. Do the same with the second end of the strand.

Making a braid. Making a braid includes two main works:

• production of wefts;
• wrapping tresses on the braid.

Hair consumption for the manufacture of one braid can be from 60 to 200 g.

Weaving hair into threads is called weaving, and weaving strands into them is called weaving.

Weft making produced on a special device. Cotton threads of the required strength are wound onto the pegs of the right rack of the device. To do this, each peg is alternately taken in the right hand for the part that is inserted into the hole in the rack. They take the threads in the left hand and wind them around the peg with clockwise movements away from themselves. You need to wind the threads tightly so that they do not slip off the peg. The pegs with wound threads are inserted into the right rack, the free ends of the threads are taken all together and fixed on the pin of the left rack. All three threads are pulled equally, turning the pegs to the right. Next, they take out the lower peg with a wound thread, wrap the thread (moving from themselves from top to bottom) around the stretched threads and tighten it with a loop. This is done in order to tighten the threads and avoid weaving the weft. After that, the peg is inserted into place, and the thread is pulled, turning the peg to the right.

Three wefts are made for one braid. To make it lush, use long, medium and short hair at the same time. After such separation (when combing), they are divided into three equal parts. Then they put it in pre-prepared cards, located one after the other with their heads towards themselves. A brush is placed on the cards so as to capture both cards. This is done so that the hair is well stretched and not tangled. The ends of long hair are clamped into cardach. In order for the ends of short hair not to come out of the braid when braiding, it is made with a tire. Tire is called the top layer, which covers the entire length of the inner short hair. For a tire, take hair 60 - 65 cm long.

Making a tress for a braid begins with making a tire and weaving first long, then medium and finally short hair. For the tire, 10 - 15 cm of thin weft is made, including 4 - 5 cm of weft, for which 10-15 hairs are taken. This part of the tress goes to decorate the ear of the braid. The requirement is made under the upper thread in one turn. The location of the hair between the threads in this case resembles the letter M (Fig. 61).

The weft in one turn under the upper thread is made in several steps (Fig. 62).

First reception. With the index and thumb of the right hand, a bundle of hair is pulled onto the cards and transferred to the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. With them, the beam is applied to the stretched threads from the inside at a distance of about 15 cm from the left post. At the same time, the end of the beard is raised up (beards are the ends of the hair heads that remain free when they are fixed in threads). The size of the beard should be 3.5 - 4 cm. With the fingers of the left hand, hold the tuft of hair until the end of fixing the beard with the fifth step.

Second reception. With the index and thumb of the right hand, they grab and drag the end of the beard towards themselves between the upper and middle threads, pressing the bundle against them. The beard of the hair is also raised up.

Third take. With the index and thumb of the right hand, they grab the end of the hair beard and drag it towards themselves between the upper and middle threads. After that, the hair is lowered down, wrapping it around all the threads, and transferred to the fingers of the left hand. The end of the hair beard rises up.

Fourth take. With the index and thumb of the right hand, they grab the end of the beard between the upper and middle threads and drag it towards themselves. The end of the beard is raised up.

Fifth reception. With the index finger of the right hand, they grab the lower thread from below, lift it up towards themselves until the passage of the same finger between the upper and middle threads, grab the end of the hair beard and drag it between the threads towards themselves. With the nail of the thumb of the right hand, the tressed tuft of hair is moved to the left stand close to the fastening.

In the manufacture of a tire, 14 bundles of hair are pressed into 1 cm. After the manufacture of the tire, cracking is carried out under the upper thread, but in two turns. The location of the hair between the threads in this case resembles two letters M (Fig. 63). Cracking the hair under the top thread gives the braid splendor. Cracking in two turns under the top thread is performed similarly to the above description of cracking in one turn under the top thread, but with the repetition of the second, third and fourth tricks. The braid tress has 3 to 5 tufts of hair per 1 cm.

After weaving, the hair between the threads on one side forms something like a hanging fringe, and on the other (from the side of the heads) - a beard 3.5 - 4 cm long.

The made weft is fixed with a bottom thread. To do this, with the fingers of the right hand, the lower peg is taken out of the rack and the stretched threads are wrapped with its thread from top to bottom. Having formed a loop, move it close to the weft, making 4-5 such loops. After fastening, the remaining ends of the threads are cut off.

So that when cracking the hair does not slip in the fingers, the latter are moistened with a damp sponge. After making three wefts, they begin to wind them up.

Winding the weft onto the braid produced using a winding machine (see Fig. 56), and in the absence of it, the right rack of the frame is used for weaving hair.

Winding the wefts onto the braid and connecting them into a braid is done as follows: take 1.5 - 2 m of cotton braid, fold it in half (for strength), wrap the braid on the winding machine, leaving one end free.

When using a frame for weaving hair, the braid is threaded into the hole for the peg of the right rack. Fix it in the hole by winding the threaded end of the braid on a stick; the other end remains free. The end of the tress is firmly sewn to the free end of the braid so that it does not come off during any combing.

Tress is sewn in such a way that the hair falls down. First they screw it up without a tire.

Having sewn the weft to the braid, firmly clamp the sewn end with the index and thumb of the left hand, and rotate the winding machine or stick with the right hand so that the braid twists into a tight tourniquet. After that, they begin to spirally wrap the stress around the tourniquet.

When winding the weft, its beard should be inside. The first 10 cm are wrapped close - tress to tress, then its distribution on the bundle (depending on the length of the hair) is made in such a way that the length of the bundle in the finished braid strand is on average 1/3 - 1/4 of the length of the strand. The longer the hair, the shorter the braids are braided into strands.

The braid is periodically twisted so that the tourniquet remains tight. So that the weft does not go down the braid, every 7 - 10 cm it is sewn to the braid. After winding the entire weft, the braid is cut off, leaving the tip (about 3 cm). The finished strand is taken first by the lower end and the hair is combed from top to bottom, then it is grabbed by the other end (from the side of the cut braid) and combed again.

The finished strand is laid aside, and then they begin to wind up the second tress, then the third (with a tire).

Winding up the second and third strands and combing the strands is done in the same way as it is done in the manufacture of the first strand of the braid.

In a tress with a tire, the latter is not wound, but the braid is cut off, leaving the end (about 15 cm). All three strands are sewn together - braid to braid. The free end of the braid of the strand with the tire is fixed on a winding machine or threaded into the hole for the peg of the right rack. In the place where the three strands are sewn, a needle and thread are injected. The braid is twisted into a tourniquet, 4 - 5 cm of the tourniquet is wrapped tightly with threads (one to the other), left with a needle in the tourniquet. The threads are fixed by piercing the tourniquet with a needle at the end of the wrapped threads (close to them). An eyelet is made from this tourniquet and secured by sewing. The thread is not broken. The rest of the braid is cut off close to the place where the tourniquet is fixed.

A piece of braid is threaded into the eye and the braid is tied closer to the right rack. After that, they begin to wind up the tire and design the eyelet, while covering all visible pieces of braid at the place where the loop is fastened. They take a tire in the fingers of the right hand, and a braid in the fingers of the left hand and wrap the ear of the tire close - tress to tress. After winding the entire tire, the end of it is fixed with turns, and the eye is wrapped with threads in such a way that approximately 0.5 cm of the eye remains visible. Having issued it, fix the threads. To do this, before starting the wrapped threads, they pierce the eye with a needle through the wrapped strands, and then thread the needle into the eye. Repeat this two times. After such fastening, the thread is cut off, and the braid is removed from the loop.

The place of the ear wrapped with threads is crimped with pliers. The finished braid is taken by the ends, turned upside down and combed, then taken by the ear and combed lightly again, stroking the hair from top to bottom. The eye of the braid is decorated not with threads, but with hair. You can also make an eyelet, as described above, for each strand of the braid. In this case, one, two or all three strands are taken for the hairstyle.

Production of wigs, half wigs and overlays. At the request of the customer, a wig, semi-wig or overlay can be made of curled hair. They are curled horizontally or vertically. With the horizontal method, the hair is wound onto bobbins from the ends, with the vertical method, from the heads. They take a small strand of hair, thread the heads of the strands into the loop of the cord and tighten it (horizontal method). The cord is threaded into the hole of the machine or a hole drilled in the table. The lower ends are tied, the cord is pulled and fixed in such a way that the strand does not jump out of it when the hair is pulled (Fig. 64). The strands of hair are tightly wound from the ends, evenly distributing on the bobbin. If there are a lot of uneven hair in the strand, then they should be twisted together with parchment (Fig. 65). Having made the winding, the end of the sheet of parchment is tied with a thread so that it does not unwind (Fig. 66).

Hair wound on bobbins is boiled for 15 minutes in a composition consisting of 10 g of crystalline sulfite and 5 g of borax. To do this, these chemicals are poured into an enameled container, pour 1 liter of hot water into it, stir with a stick so that all the crystals dissolve, and then put the bobbins with hair into the prepared composition and boil for 15 minutes. They are removed from the composition, placed in hot water (50 °), adding acetic acid (2.0 g per 1 liter of water) to it, and kept in this solution until cooled.

Curled hair gives the wig lightness and splendor. Wigs, semi-wigs, women's or men's pieces are made by threading hair into a fabric base.

The production of women's or men's wigs, semi-wigs, pull-through covers includes two main works:

• fabrication of a cloth base (montura),
• attaching hair to the base (monture).

Making a cloth base (montura). Cloth bases (montages) for wigs, semi-wigs or overlays are made in strict accordance with the hair growth lines on the head and are made on a wooden blank, which is selected according to the size of the customer's head.

Before proceeding with the manufacture of the montage, they take a measurement from the customer’s head and make an accurate paper pattern (Fig. 67) (A - C - frontal notch length, B - frontal notch depth, C - D - temple length, D - F - distance from the temple to the cervical protrusion, 3 - the center of the occiput and the place where the spring is attached; 1 - the parietal part, 2 - the crown, 3 - the temporal part, 4 - the occipital part).

To take measurements, take a centimeter and make the following measurements: 1) from the middle of the frontal protrusion, around the head, through the temporal protrusions and under the occiput to the middle of the frontal protrusion (head circumference); 2) from the middle of the frontal protrusion to the temporal; 3) from the temporal protrusion to the temple; 4) the depth of the frontal and temporal notches; 5) from the temple to the cervical angle; 6) from the cervical angle to the middle of the neck; 7) from the hairline on the frontal ledge to the edge of hair growth through the top of the head (wig depth); 8) from ear to ear through the top of the head); 9) from the occipital protrusion if it has a strongly convex shape.

A paper pattern is made as follows: they take a sheet of white paper, the length of which is equal to the size of the circumference of the head, fold it in half and cut off a strip 8–9 cm wide, put on the paper, according to the measurements taken, the location of the protrusions and recesses around the head and cut out the pattern. Since it is cut out of paper folded in half, the dimensions of the volume of the head and the distance from one temple to the other are recorded in half size, all the rest are in full.

If the shape of the customer's head has significant deviations from the norm, they take a tracing paper and outline the contours of the hairline; on the blank, if necessary, they either increase the bulges by sticking several layers of cardboard on it, or remove the extra bulges by turning the blank.

Patterns for men's wigs, women's and men's overlays are made by applying tracing paper to the head. The finished pattern is glued with clerical glue or pierced with pins to the blank. The edges of the pattern are outlined with a pencil, outlining the hair growth line, which should coincide with the edge line of their growth on the customer's head. Then they put the blank on their knees with the parietal part towards themselves, take a cotton braid of hair color in their left hand, and use pliers in the right hand and begin to attach the braid along the hairline drawn on the blank. Attachment is carried out by pressing a thin pin or pin clamped in pliers, bending the latter down.

The stuffing of the braid for the wig starts from the middle of the neck, then stuffing is done from right to left and to the left cervical corner, around the auricle and to the temple, then to the temporal notch and protrusion, along the frontal notch to the frontal protrusion and so around the entire blank to the neck, i.e. e. to the beginning of the braid.

Depending on the shape of the head, internal connecting lines are determined, along which the braid is pulled (Fig. 68), as well as the places where the springs are attached.

When nailing the braid, it is pulled tight so that it does not gather into folds, but fits snugly against the blank. On protrusions and recesses, pins are driven in more often, and less often on straight lines in order to maintain the shape of one or another part of the head. All places of the fold of the braid are fixed by stitching it with a thread of the color of the braid.

To make the wig fit better to the head, after fixing the braid, pieces of clock springs 2 mm wide and 4–5 cm long are inserted inside. they did not break through the montura tape, and sheathe the spring with braid. After that, the springs are sewn: on the frontal protrusion - 3 pieces, on the temples - 2 pieces each, on the cervical corners - 1 piece each, on the ends of the connection - 1 piece each.

The mounting tape prepared in this way is covered with a flesh-colored silk sieve. It is moistened in water and pulled tightly over a blank. The material is attached with pins, while removing them from the braid. Stretch it so that there are no wrinkles.

Having pulled the material, take a needle with a thread of the color of the material or hair and sew it to the braid along all its lines, leaving the edges of the material (1 cm) free. As the material is sewn, pins are removed from it. Then the edges of the material are folded over and sewn from below. To give the montage a stable shape, it is sprayed with hairspray. After the material is sewn, proceed to attach the hair.

A wig made by pulling hair. The hair is attached to the material (silk sieve) by pulling it with a special hook in the direction of hair growth on the head. The hair at the crown is pulled around one point so that it matches the direction of its growth. Pulling is done as follows: a blank covered with a cloth base is placed on your knees, a small bench is placed under your feet so that you don’t have to bend over much. The hair is placed in the card with the head towards itself and pinched with a brush. With the right hand, a small bundle of hair is pulled out of the card. Heads of hair (3 - 4 cm) are bent so that a loop is obtained, they are transferred to the left hand and the tuft of hair is firmly held in it. Take the hook in the right hand. (The handle of the hook should be comfortable, it should not spin in it.) They grab the fabric with a hook, and throw a loop of hair over it with their left hand (Fig. 69, a). With the right hand, a hook with captured hair is pulled out of the fabric (Fig. 69, b). After that, they are crocheted around the hair (Fig. 69, c), dragged through the entire length into the loop and tightened tightly (Fig. 69, d).

Having finished pulling on one side, the hair is braided or, twisted, attached with pins to the blank, bypassing the fabric base. This is done so that the hair does not get tangled.

After pulling the hair through the entire fabric base from the outside, the wig or semi-wig is turned over with the hair down and attached to the blank from the inside. Along the edge of the braid going to the face, two rows of hair are pulled in the following directions: with a hairstyle with a parting - from the parting down, with a hairstyle without a parting - from the frontal protrusion down to the cervical protrusion. This is done in order to mask the edge of the braid that goes around the head and goes out to the face.

After pulling the cotton braid from the inside, the wig or semi-wig is again put on the blank with the hair up. Then the hair is combed and, at the request of the customer, an appropriate hairstyle is made (haircut, perm, styling, etc.).

The number of pulls of hair bundles per square centimeter of a montage should be: for a women's wig - from 50 to 60, for a man's - from 35 to 45, for a parting of a women's or men's wig - from 130 to 140.

Women's wig made by pulling hair and cracking. In the manufacture of a women's wig by pulling hair and cracking, the following main works are performed:

• monture making,
• hair pulling,
• making weft and sewing it to the montage.

Monture making for this wig, it is made in the same way as it is done for wigs, semi-wigs and overlays (for women or men), made by pulling hair into a fabric base. The difference lies in the fact that the silk sieve is pulled only on the parietal part and tugging hair is performed only in this part. The rest of the blank is covered with hair-colored tulle and sewn to the braid in the same way as when the entire blank was covered with a silk sieve, when the wig was made by pulling. A weft is sewn to this part of the montage.

All preparatory work related to the production of tress, - preparation of cards, frames for weaving hair, etc. - are carried out in the same way as in the manufacture of tresses for braids.

For this wig, weaving is made by weaving two turns under the bottom thread. The number of hair bundles per 1 cm of this weft should be from 5 to 7. Approximately 4.5 - 5 m of weft is made for one wig.

Cracking in two turns under the lower thread is carried out in several stages.

First reception. With the index and thumb of the right hand, a bundle of hair is pulled out of the card and transferred to the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. With the same fingers, a bundle of hair is applied from below to the stretched threads from the inner base of the side at a distance of about 15 cm from the left post.

With the index and thumb of the right hand, they stretch the upper part of the hair bundle towards themselves (between the lower and middle threads), press it to the threads with the beards upwards with the fingers of the left hand and hold it until the end of fastening.

Second reception. With the index and thumb of the right hand, they grab a bundle of hair (beards) and pull it between the upper and middle threads, wrap the bundle around all the threads with a downward movement; the end of the hair (beard) should be raised up.

Third take. With the index and thumb of the right hand, they grab the end of the beard and pull it towards themselves between the upper and middle threads, lifting the end up.

Fourth take. With the index and thumb of the right hand, they grab the end of the beard between the upper and middle threads and pull it towards themselves. With the fingers moving down, wrap the hair around the thread. The end of the beard should be raised up.

Fifth reception. With the index and thumb of the right hand, they grab the end of the beard and pull it between the upper PI of the middle thread, lifting the end up.

Sixth reception. With the index finger of the right hand, they grab the lower thread from below, lift it up towards themselves so that the same finger passes between the upper and middle threads. Then they grab the end of the hair beard and pull between the threads towards themselves.

With the nail of the thumb of the right hand, the tressed tuft of hair is moved to the left stand close to the fixed threads. After that, the next bundle of hair is pulled out of the card and work begins with the first dose, etc.

After finishing the tresses, the tresses are fixed with a bottom thread.

To do this, remove the lower peg from the rack, then wrap the threads from top to bottom, make a loop and move it close to the weft. 4 - 5 such loops are made. After fixing, the threads are cut off from the weft close to the last loop.

The finished weft is sewn with threads to the fabric base - on tulle (Fig. 70).

Women's wig, fully cut and sewn into a chignon. In the manufacture of a fully finely cut and sewn in the form of a chignon women's wig, the following main work is performed:

• monture making,
• pulling hair in the front of the montage and on the neck,
• making a finely tressed weft, sewing it to a mounting tape and stitching it in the form of a chignon.

The montage for this wig is basically a frame made of mounting tape.

Monture making for this wig includes the following operations: taking measurements, drawing hair growth lines on a blank. These operations are carried out in the same way as in the manufacture of wigs, semi-wigs and overlays - by pulling. The material - a silk sieve - is sewn to the braid in the form of a narrow strip on the front of the blank. Small pieces of silk sieve are sewn on the neck to mask the braid.

The weft for this wig is made in one turn under the lower thread (Fig. 71), by pressing bundles of hair into the threads, 10-15 hairs in each bundle.

The number of tufts of hair of a finely cracked weft per centimeter should be at least 25. The length of the weft is 8 - 10 m. The weaving in one turn under the lower thread is performed in several stages.

First reception. With the index and thumb of the right hand, a bundle of hair is pulled out of the card and immediately transferred to the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. With the fingers of the left hand, a bundle of hair is applied to the stretched threads from the inside at a distance of 12 - 15 cm from the left post. The end of the head should be no more than 3.5 - 4 cm. The bundle is held with the fingers of the left hand until the end of the hair fixing by the fourth step.

Second reception. With the index finger of the right hand, they grab and drag the end of the head towards themselves between the lower and middle threads. At the same time, the beards of the hair are lifted up.

Third take. With the index finger of the right hand, they grab the end of the hair beard and drag it towards themselves between the upper and middle threads, turn it down, wrap it around all the threads and transfer it to the fingers of the left hand. The end of the hair beard is also lifted up.

Fourth take. With the index and thumb of the right hand, they grab the end of the beard between the upper and middle threads and drag it towards themselves. The end of the beard at the same time rises up.

Fifth reception. With the index finger of the right hand, they grab the bottom thread from below and lift it up towards themselves until the index finger is between the first and second threads, grab the end of the hair beard and drag it between the threads towards themselves. After that, with the nail of the thumb of the right hand, located between the upper and middle threads, move the tuft of hair to the left stand close to the fastening. After that, the next bundle of hair is pulled out of the karda and its tressing begins with the methods described above, etc.

For the manufacture of a fully finely tressed women's wig, approximately 8 to 10 m of finely tress is made.

The finished weft is sewn with threads first to the material, then to the braid and at the same time weft to weft in the form of a grid (the same is done when making a chignon).

Characteristic wig (from fine hair) made by pulling the hair. In the manufacture of a characteristic wig (from small hair), made by pulling, the following work is performed:

• monture making,
• making fine hair,
• pulling hair into a cloth base.

Monture for this wig is made in the same way as described above for a women's or men's wig, 3 / 4 wig or patch, made by threading into a fabric base.

Shallow hair performed on a special device for braiding hair on two threads, so they need to fit two pegs and insert them into the hole on the right rack. The ends of the threads should be pulled tightly to the left post and secured with a pin. Turning the pins to the right, you need to pull all the threads equally, pull out the bottom pin with the wound thread and, making a loop at a distance of 5-6 cm from the left post, wrap the stretched threads, and then make 3-4 loops. After that, the peg must be inserted into the right rack, and the threads must be pulled again. Following this, combs or short hair are placed in the karda, and a brush is placed on them, which holds the hair. After that, they begin to crack. The process is carried out in several stages.

First reception. With the index and thumb of the right hand, a strand of hair is pulled out of the karda and transferred to the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Then a strand is attached to the stretched threads from the back side at a distance of about 10 - 12 cm from the left rack.

Second reception. With the index and thumb of the right hand, passed between the threads, they grab the upper part of the strand and pull it towards themselves. Raising the end of the hair up, lean it against the threads and transfer it to the fingers of the left hand. The ends of the hair in this case are arranged as follows: one down, and the other up. Third take. With the index and thumb of the right hand, passed between the threads, they grab the upper end of the strand, wrap the upper thread with it and pull it between the threads towards themselves, and then transfer it to the left hand. The two ends of the strand are lowered down. Fourth take. With the index and thumb of the right hand, they grab the two ends of the strand with a movement away from themselves, wrap them around the bottom thread and lift them up. After that, the ends of the hair are transferred to the left hand.

Fifth reception. With the index and thumb of the right hand, located between the threads, they grab the ends of the hair and pull them towards themselves. Raising the ends up, wrap the top thread with them, pull the ends of the hair between the threads towards themselves and lower the ends down.

As you can see, the manufacture of tress from two threads consists in the fact that a strand of hair is alternately wrapped around the threads. Wrapping the bottom of them, the strand is pulled between the threads towards itself and lift the end of the hair up. Having wrapped the upper thread, the strand is pulled between the threads towards itself, the end of the hair is lowered down, etc. When the end of the hair 4–5 cm long remains, the hair braided on the threads is moved with the thumbnail of the right hand close to the place where the threads are fixed at the left stand ( Fig. 72).

Having tressed one strand, they pull out a new card from the card, apply it to the remaining end (4-5 cm) and continue to make tress. A new strand is attached to the tressed one when the ends of the hair are pulled out between the threads towards themselves.

Having pressed all the hair, the tress is fixed with a bottom thread, making 4-5 loops. Having cut the weed closely at the place of fixing, it is boiled for 15 minutes in a solution of crystalline sulfite (10 g of sulfite and 5 g of borax per 1 liter of water). Then removed from the solution, washed with hot soapy water and dried. When the weft becomes dry, the threads are cut off from one end and the hair is pulled out of them.

Pulling hair into a fabric base is similar to pulling hair in the manufacture of a men's wig and semi-wig.

Making hairpieces. Chignon is made from tress. It is cracked in two turns under the lower thread, as described above.

The finished weft is sewn together with threads in the form of a grid with large cells with a diameter of 10 - 15 mm, giving it a round, rectangular or triangular shape - in accordance with the order (Fig. 73).

Making eyelashes. Eyelashes are made in two ways.

First way. Cotton thread No. 40 is pulled onto the frame for weaving the hair. Using a needle for pulling the hair, the hair is tied to the thread (loop to loop, about 2 cm, two hairs in one loop, then 1 cm - one hair in the loop). Then the binding of the hairs alternates in the described order as many times as it is required to make eyelashes. After tying the hair, the thread is cut into equal parts: in the middle of the place where, at a distance of one centimeter, the hair is woven one hair at a time.

Separate segments of the threads are smeared with Grim glue, allowed to dry, the hair of the eyelashes is cut in a semicircle, then their tips are bent with hot tongs, slightly stretched through paraffin or stearin to give stability.

Each pair of finished eyelashes is placed in a case.

The second way. They take a strip of material "gas-chiffon" 3 - 4 cm wide, fold it in half lengthwise and nail it to the blank. The hair is pulled into the curved edge with a needle, placing them in the same order as in the manufacture of eyelashes in the first method.