Do spirits listen or smell? Why do spirits listen and not smell? FAQ. Why perfumes listen and not smell Isabelle Doyen says: “Before I sit down to create a new fragrance, I go to a bookstore

Are you here: Fashion & Style

You've probably noticed that in perfume stores, consultants usually offer customers not to smell, but to listen to a particular scent. “Strange,” you thought. “Everyone knows that people pick up smells with their nose, not their ears. Then why do they say that fragrances are listened to and not smelled? Where did this strange terminology come from? Well, let's find out.

Why do people say “listen” to a scent rather than “smell” it?

Of course, “listen to the aroma” is a figurative expression. You don't need to hold a bottle of perfume to your ear to hear something. And yet, where did it come from?
It's all about the associativity of our thinking.

For example, we often draw parallels between smell and taste. When describing the taste of a vintage wine, we will most likely talk about its stunning bouquet.

And we associate many aromatic plants with a certain taste, since we often use them as seasonings.

Some scientists have also tried to draw an analogy between color and smell.

They suggested that the seven primary colors of the spectrum could correspond to seven musical notes.

Scientists have been able to draw semantic parallels between smell and sound. A great contribution to this area was made by the English perfumer Piess, who was the first to introduce into use the concept of a harmonious and disharmonious combination of odors and arrange the main aromatic extracts into sound series.

Since then, in the perfumery business, the question of listening to smells or smelling them has disappeared. And the perfumers themselves began to create their aromatic masterpieces according to the principle piece of music: from notes and chords.

There are practically 3 chords:

Top chord or top notes
middle chord or heart notes
and bottom chord or base notes

Together they form a aroma that, like musical symphony, is not a static (frozen) sound, but plays and develops over time.

Now do you understand why they say that you need to listen to the aroma? Agree, in this context the word “sniff” sounds somehow strange :)

However, there is one small but.

They listen to aromas, but they still smell perfume

Some consultants in stores are so carried away that they offer clients to listen to perfume instead of a scent. Which, strictly speaking, is wrong.

Because we still smell the source of the smell (in this case, an aromatic liquid, a bottle of perfume or a scented blotter).
But we can already listen to the aroma itself.

This linguistic subtlety is best reflected by the phrase “smell<духи>, can you hear the smell?<какой аромат>" Do you notice the difference?

In general, of course, it doesn’t matter how you say it – smell the perfume or listen to it – people will understand your information message. But something tells us that speaking correctly is important, first of all, for yourself. And now you know how to do it right :)

For me this is very interesting topic, because it is associated with both language and perfumes. Although the Russian language is not my direct specialty (I am not a philologist, but a linguist), I love it very much and really want to talk about my point of view on “listening to aromas.”

I will assume that the use of the word "listen" in relation to fragrances is normal and not an error, since we have sufficient historical data to conclude that our "case" has existed for a long time in language and is used everywhere.

Therefore, we cannot deny it or attribute it to the illiteracy of individuals, the cunning inventions of marketers and the vulgar sublimity of powdered girls from perfume stores.

A couple of examples:

“It seemed to him that he could still smell that smell. And he remembered how the day before her death she took him strong white hand with her bony, blackened hand, looked into his eyes and said: “Don’t judge me, Mitya, if I did the wrong thing,” and tears appeared in his eyes, faded from suffering,” - Leo Tolstoy “Resurrection”

What nonsense! “It’s me who bathe in the resin extract,” answered Bodrostina, and, bringing her hand closer to his face, she added: “Smell it, isn’t that it?” - No, I smell the smell of new boards, they are being planed somewhere.

Leskov "On Knives"

Then I heard (oh wonder!) a foul smell,

It's like a rotten egg has broken,

Or the quarantine guard smoked with a sulfur brazier

Pushkin (poem 1832)

Well, it goes without saying that all of us, perfume maniacs, have heard this expression a hundred million times in our lives. In general, the language of perfume maniacs is full of sound associations and metaphors.

Our scents are divided into notes, they sound, they can be too loud or too quiet. No one is surprised by descriptions of fragrances, such as: “At first tuberose was the soloist, jasmine echoed it, and then amber and patchouli entered, and on this note everything suddenly ended.” How much more musical? Is it true?

There are also phrases such as “cacophony of aromas.” We immediately understand what is meant - this is not just a mixture of smells, it is a mixture of aromas that are not friendly with each other, do not combine, irritate, like the empty strumming of a musical instrument.

And in all this I see very interesting point. I believe that languages are complex dynamic systems because they have the hallmarks of complex dynamic systems: multiple, diverse agents and interconnectedness. Consequently, not a single phenomenon, even the craziest at first glance, happens by chance, just like that. And “listening” about fragrances is not an accidental mistake or a short-term fashion.

I'll try to explain now how I see it.

We have senses: sight, hearing, touch, smell, taste and balance. We receive the bulk of information through vision, followed by hearing, touch, smell and taste (in to a lesser extent), well, the balance is generally similar to Pluto in solar system- almost lost, not quite even a planet. And these feelings of ours and their role in obtaining information have a strong influence on the formation of language.

Look how much different words for us it is associated with vision: to see, to look, to watch, to behold, and so on. And how mobile these words are, how easily they form derivatives with new meanings: to discern, to peep, to notice, to review, and so on.

The same goes for hearing, although to a slightly lesser extent: listening, eavesdropping, and so on.

The most depleted of epithets for us, of course, is a sense of balance, which can only be lost and regained. And it seems that we don’t even have verbs relating only to this feeling.

Since receiving information is associated with a process of collection and processing (roughly speaking), words that correlate with feelings are displayed in pairs. Things go best with the most active methods of obtaining information: “look-see”, “listen-hear”.

And then the difficulties begin. Sense of touch. The word touch can mean both to touch and to feel touched. This is a pair in itself, without distinctions based on the “reception-sensation” principle. But here we have other tools: “touch-feel”, “touch-feel” and others like them in different combinations.

Smell. Smell. Just like “touch,” “smell” can mean both the process of drawing in air and the process of sensing the aroma, so to speak, processing the received data.

And look how clumsy and clumsy these words are, how narrow their range of application is, no scale, no range! You cannot “touch” or “smell”. We practically never use them. colloquial speech. They're in to a large extent protocol.

There is a word “sniff”, but it does not have a pair, although it accurately and definitely refers to an action aimed at obtaining information. There are auxiliary tools - to feel, sense and hear (and where you hear, there you listen). It may arise here tricky question: Why is the word “hear” applied to the organs of smell, but not to the organs of touch? Because we hear from a distance and we can smell aromas from a distance. But touch it - no.

I want to give an example:

He felt the scent of home

He heard the aroma of his home

He smelled the scent of his home

I don’t know about you, but for me personally, the first option suggests that “he” was already inside his own home, feeling the aroma

The second option tells me that he is somewhere near the house, but not inside, maybe on the way

And the third option tells me that his house smells bad. Or that “he” is a dog.

And in general, derivatives of the word “sniff” often sound ironic - all these sniff, sniff... And the process of sniffing itself refers to the physical drawing in of air. This is why cocaine is snorted and not snorted. Sniff - sniff with your nostrils.

But the sense of taste does not have such luxury. The word “to try” borrowed from German and words-auxiliary tools taken from the sense of touch - that’s all. Even the related word “eat” has a different meaning.

Please note that the basic senses do not need these tools. We don’t feel the paintings in the museum and we don’t feel the music in MP3 format.

Thus, when you lack your own, relatives visual arts, they are borrowed from neighboring areas. At the same time, borrowings fit well into the setting and ideally display all the necessary nuances.

And one more thing related to fragrances. As we know, the word “aroma” has several meanings. There is aroma - a synonym for smell, and there is aroma - a synonym for perfume. We cannot smell the smell, we sense or feel the smell (or listen ha-ha-ha), because it is a property, not an object. We can smell its source. And we can easily smell the aroma of a bottle of perfume. And this is where confusion often arises when a person, roughly speaking, holds a blotter in his hands and “sniffs” its aroma. Although he can only smell the blotter itself, and he can inhale the aroma. Or listen, which implies the active involvement of attention and mental work in the process itself. He can feel and feel the aroma - these words are also appropriate, but they do not appeal to attention, while when choosing perfume, we carefully listen to their shades, and not just feel it randomly, as we can feel, for example, cold , going out onto the balcony.

Well, why am I here, my thoughts naturally spread throughout the tree. Convenience. In addition to poetry, in addition to the associative connection between aromas and music, in addition to the lack of native flexible instruments, the sense of smell has a banal convenience:

Listen to the aroma! What do you hear?

I hear cherry and gladiolus

Smell the aroma! What do you feel/smell/feel?

Here you still have to choose words, and language, every language, strives for simplicity and brevity. By the way, I, for example, would not be very pleased with a question about what I smell from a stranger, even if we are talking about fragrances. It sounds too personal. But this is my personal opinion.

Objectively, such a question can be perceived in two ways. Or sound too literary and sublime for a regular store. Although, I’m being picky, this is also possible. But this is not the only way.

Well, one last thing. IN last days several times I heard that we cannot listen with our noses because there are no hearing receptors there. By the way, I didn’t hear it, but saw it several times, because I read it with my eyes on the screen :)

But we can listen to the voice of the heart or its call, our eyes can speak, and not only our eyes, but also our postures and appearance, behavior. Although they have nothing to say: there are no speech organs. And people vote with their feet and all that...Feelings are allowed to “walk” back and forth, transfer from one sphere to another. Why? Because the world for us is a source of information, feelings, emotions and thoughts. He speaks to us, and we hear and analyze him. And formalities, in the form of the presence of receptors, often fade into the background, giving way to linguistic metaphors and colors. Of course, if we are not talking about the text of a medical examination.

I am glad that we always have a choice. We can smell, listen, smell. And no one forces us to use words that we don’t like. And that's great! And, most importantly, I wish everyone endless perfume joys and plenty of room for smell!

Your scent is not only a fashion statement, or a reflection of your character, mood and style, but also one of the most subtle, personal messages that you send to the people with whom you communicate. Choosing it correctly is an art. And here there are their own “perfume” laws.

1. It has been noticed that sensitivity to higher in the morning, immediately after waking up - after the olfactory (olfactory) silence of the night - smells are perceived more clearly purely psychologically. In general, receptors work the same way throughout the day.

2. But after 50 years, the ability to deeply and fully perceive surrounding odors begins to gradually dull. In this regard, older people often prefer intense scents - lighter ones simply do not suit them.

3. It should be borne in mind that sensitivity to aromas also decreases after a cold or flu. Therefore, refrain from making decisions about new perfumes if you have recently been unwell.

4. Hot weather dramatically increases the ability of the sense of smell and enhances the impact of any smell on a person. In hot weather, you should prefer light and fresh scents.

5. When choosing perfumes, remember that you can try no more than three or four scents at a time. The following will not be perceived correctly. And try to start familiarizing yourself with the assortment with lighter, unobtrusive scents.

6. The character of the perfume manifests itself slowly, in several stages:

- initial (head) note

- heart note (middle)

- final (base) note,

indicate the phases of bouquet opening.

When you apply perfume “for testing”, it is advisable to do it on the pulsation points - the wrist, the bend of the elbow. And do not rub it under any circumstances - all the listed phases will be mixed up, which ideally should unfold gradually and sequentially. You will receive the final result of the fragrance no earlier than 10 minutes after application to the skin.

7. Don't choose a scent because you liked it on someone. The same perfume will smell differently on each person. The reason is individual chemical processes, which make the smell special, unique and suitable just for you. This especially applies to the best men's fragrances.

8. Advice for men. Never apply eau de toilette after shaving like cologne; it will most likely irritate your face. This happens due to the high alcohol content in perfumes, and skin treated with a razor must be soothed with special after-shave creams/lotions/balms.

9. The bottle must indicate:

Parfum- perfume

Eau de Parfum- Eau de parfum

Eau de Toilette- Eau de Toilette.

The difference is in the ratio of the concentration of aromatic oils and alcohols and, accordingly, in the durability and intensity of the aroma. Highest content aromatic oils - from 20 to 30% - in perfumes. This is followed by eau de parfum - from 15 to 25%, then eau de toilette - from 10 to 20%. That is why the price of the same fragrance depends on the form of release.

10. Be careful when applying perfume to clothes, hair and jewelry.

In the first case, keep in mind that perfume can leave a stain, and synthetics- distort the aroma beyond recognition, but the most eau de toilette-friendly surfaces are fur and wool (the smell lasts for a very long time, practically unchanged).

Secondly, the hair must be clean. Greasy and unwashed, they also distort the original smell of your perfume, adding too much of their own.

In the third, perfume can spoil pearls, the shine of amber and other stones.

In general, it is ideal that if we are talking about perfume, the most concentrated aroma, then it should only be applied to your own skin. It is this that will allow the composition to reveal itself as brightly as possible.

11. It is not without reason that perfumes are divided into “for blondes” and “for brunettes”.

The thing is that blondes' skin, more often than not, does not hold fragrance well. It intensively fills the space, actively influencing those around it. So heavy oriental rich scents act like a “weapon of mass destruction” on a blonde’s skin. Therefore, it is better for fair-haired ladies to use fresh citrus or floral scents.

Brunettes, those with lighter or lighter skin, can easily use oriental, spicy, rich scents. They last longer (sebum, as it were, “preserves” the aroma on the skin), spread more slowly and imperceptibly in space, without causing a feeling of rejection.

12. As a rule, the smell of eau de parfum disappears quite quickly, and if you want to smell it constantly, just renew the scent every three to four hours. For those with dry skin, the scent needs to be “refreshed” more often.

13. Your habits can also affect the intensity of the aroma. For example, high-calorie spicy foods make the smell of perfume much more intense. And smoking, medications, as well as elevated body temperature generally change the aroma.

14. The official shelf life of perfume is 3 years. If you don't open them, it will take longer. It is advisable to store in a cool, dry place, away from light, but not in the refrigerator.

15. The rule of good manners is that others should not smell your perfume too strongly. In the sense that the radius of action of your scent - approximately - should be equal to the distance arm's length, this is the so-called personal space.

You must have come across such a strange question more than once: why do perfumes “listen” when the aroma is not subject to any sound properties? And why are many perfumers so insistent that people “listen” to their scent, rather than proceeding from initial ideas? Let's figure this out...

Smell and Hearing

We are so often accustomed to trusting our sensory sensations that sometimes they can replace rational thinking for us... Sometimes, having trusted our feelings, we move into the emotional plane, and then our actions become devoid of a rational approach, and even more so, of intuitive perception. All these are far from psychological, and I would even say philosophical questions that we will not discuss in this material. Let us limit ourselves, first, to the structural problems of smell and hearing.

So, our brain picks up millions of odors in one single day... Interestingly, the nose is only a conductor of odors from the outside world, while the main receptors for recognizing odors are located in the cerebral lobes, which, in turn, send signals to the receptors of the nose. It is at this stage that the process of capturing and subsequently recognizing odors occurs.

With our hearing the situation is almost the same. Thanks to the complex structure of the auditory chamber, eardrums and everything else, sound passing through the ear signals the brain how and is “filtered”. Too harsh, rough sounds irritate us, but soft and pleasant ones, on the contrary, become pleasant... If we bring the source of negative sound too close to our ear, we will immediately receive a negative reaction... In the most radical cases, this can lead to a complete absence of hearing and blocking receptors. (This is why, for example, it is so important to understand what kind of headphones you use. According to experts, if you are used to blocking the sounds of the outside world, then it is best to abandon vacuum headphones, since they are the most irritating to our hearing).

From music to flowers

As we know, from primary, saturated colors, by mixing others, tones and halftones, shadow and brightness are formed. The range of colors is varied, if not huge...

In turn, a particular color is assigned the smell that most closely matches it. It sounds a little strange, how is this even possible, do the senses really deceive us so often?

In fact, a similar process of attaching smell to color became possible thanks to discoveries in the field of perfumery. When creating a particular fragrance, perfumers use colors in their terminology. So, you can find the color “turquoise”, “sea wave”, “mahogany”, “apple green”, etc. This also expresses the richness of the smell. The more the smell goes to bright colors- the more saturated it is. (Bright, red colors are more saturated than cold, blue and dark ones).

Subsequently, when obtaining scent formulas, researchers began to add sound to this tradition. As everyone knows, there are only seven notes in the world. Any musical instrument extracts sounds based on combinations of this “seven”.

However, in perfumery, when creating a fragrance, only three so-called notes are used

· Top note:

· Heart note (or also called “heart note”);

· Base notes;

As you move from one note to another, the scent of the perfume intensifies. Top note - has the initial odors that we are able to smell when we first meet, for example, .

The heart note, or “heart note,” is revealed after the top note. In it we can feel the main components of the aroma, its components. When creating a heart note, stronger and more stable aroma components are used than in the case of the top note, where “lightness” and “unobtrusiveness” are the main criteria for aroma.

The aroma smoothly transitions from the heart note to the base note. As a rule, it contains those components that will remain with you after some time. The base notes include sharper and stronger aromas, especially citrus, woody and spicy, because... They are the ones who leave behind a long trail.

Why do spirits “listen”?

Based on all of the above, we can say that when we get acquainted with and subsequently use a fragrance, we “listen” to the perfume, like musicians passing through the entire sound gamut of the fragrance, from the top - heart - base notes.

Therefore, do not be surprised if, when purchasing a new fragrance in a perfume store, the consultant asks you to “listen” to the smell of the perfume you have chosen. In perfumery, such terminology has long become commonplace.

By the way, it is with such a harmonious combination of smell, color and sound that a unique aroma is born, and this is how, through painstaking work and a long relationship between these three components, famous perfume brands create masterpieces of their collection, which will take their rightful place among the “favorites” of customers.

Return to list